Slalom Skis Buying Guide
There are several different styles of slalom skis that are available to slalom water skiers, so how do you know which style is the right one for you? The information contained in this buying guide will hopefully allow you to determine which is best for you and your abilities.
The first step in making your determination about slalom skis is to make an honest evaluation about your skill level. This is not the time to pad your ego by thinking you're a superstar when you're not. If you do, you'll regret it later. Making an honest evaluation of yourself will allow you to narrow down your selection of skis to choose from.
- Bevel
- Flex
- Rocker
- Bottom Design
- Width
- Profile
- Wide
- Shaped
- Traditional
- World Class
Components
Bevel
- The side profile of the ski
- Determines the way water flows from under the ski and up the sides
- Lower Bevel: Affects lift. A rounded lower bevel facilitates smooth water flow and keeps lift low. A sharp lower bevel results in more water resistance underneath the ski, resulting in a higher ride.
- Upper Bevel: Controls roll. A rounded upper bevel facilitates rolling, but is more challenging to control. A sharp upper bevel reduces a water ski's leaning tendencies.
Flex
- Slalom ski stiffness varies greatly from tip to tail.
- A rule of thumb for flex points of a slalom ski is that each flex point should be within 20 percent of the next. A good guideline may be 100 : 85 : 60 : 50
- Flex pattern of slalom skis is more important to performance than stiffness of the ski.
Rocker
- Influences the turn radius of a ski. Is defined as the degree to which the nose and tail are angled upward.
- It is important to know that the greater the rocker, the tighter the turns you will be able to make.
- Also understand that too much rocker will make your ski difficult to control and slow to accelerate.
Bottom Design
- A concave bottom design is featured on slalom skis of today.
- Ski performance is affected by the width of the concave tunnel.
- Wider tunnels create more suction and make a ski more difficult to roll.
- Narrow tunnels are less difficult to roll as they sit higher in the water.
- Transition design skis are slalom skis that have a narrow tunnel at the tip for easier roll into turns, but wider tunnels at the rear to allow the ski to ride deeper in the water.
Width
- Wider skis provide more support.
- The taper of a slalom ski is from fore-body to tail.
- Narrow tails increase a skier's ability to dig the ski into the water. Additionally, it is easier to cut across wake and slow speed on command.
- Wide tail skis maintain speed and reduce drag.
Profile
- The thickness of the ski.
- Thin profile skis ride deep, specifically in the tail section.
- Wide profile skis rider higher and keep the ski from sinking and diving prior to a turn.
Rides
Wide
- For beginners, wide skis are ideal. This type of slalom ski is significantly wider than traditional slalom skis.
- Provides for greater overall stability and balance. Helps the rider get up easier and does require quick edge.
Shaped
- Suited for both beginners and experienced skiers. This type of slalom ski is a combination of wide and traditional slalom skis.
- Provides the performance features of a traditional slalom ski but with the stability features of a wide ski, specifically at speeds below 35 mph.
- Increasing in popularity among slalom skiers.
Traditional
- The ideal selection for experienced slalom skiers who primarily ride on edge and can initiate and link a series of turns.
- Provide stability when crossing wake, responsiveness, and ease of turning.
- Perfect for skiers working on body form.
World Class
- The ideal selection for advanced and aggressive slalom water skiers.
- Constructed with a greater amount of carbon graphite material than traditional slalom skis.
- Provide quick acceleration and strong edge hold when crossing wake.
- Perform best when used aggressively in open water or slalom courses due to their very responsive nature.
Sizing
Utilize the chart below to make determine the proper slalom ski length for you. Locate the intersection of your weight (or the rider's weight) and the average cruising speed. Ranges that overlap are provided to compensate for skis that may be used by more than one rider.
|
Boat Speed |
|---|
| 26-30 mph |
30-34 mph |
34-39 mph |
| 42-48 kph |
48-55 kph |
55-59 kph |
Rider Weight |
Ski Size |
| 8-110 lbs
36-50 kg |
65-66 in |
62-64 in |
62-64 in |
95-120 lbs 43-55kg |
62-64 in |
63-64 in |
63-64 in |
115-140 lbs 52-64kg |
65-66 in |
64-66 in |
63-65 in |
135-160 lbs 61-73kg |
67-68 in |
65-66 in |
64-66 in |
155-180 lbs 70-82kg |
69-70 in |
67-68 in |
67-68 in |
175-200 lbs 80-91kg |
69-70 in |
69-70 in |
67-68 in |
195-220 lbs 89-100kg |
72 in |
69-72 in |
69-70 in |
215+ lbs 98kg |
72 in |
69-72 in |
70-72 in |
Bindings
As a general guideline, bindings should be loose enough to put on without the use of soap or other substance. Yet they should still be tight enough to provide the rider with responsiveness and feel for edge control.
Types
- Front high-wrap with rear toe plate: A versatile binding that is good for multiple skiers using the same ski.
- Double high-wrap: Custom fitting bindings that provide enhanced control and better feel.
- Adjustable bindings: Customizable fitting for better performance.
Materials
- Traditional Rubber: Best for beginners. Provide a soft comfortable fit and feel.
- EVA Foam: Better for intermediate to advanced skiers. Provide a stiffer feel and increased edge control.